BeautyTok aesthetics may be short-lived, but the hair and makeup looks you see on the runway are merely on the precipice of becoming major trends. That’s why, each season, the beauty girlies aren’t just tuning into fashion week for the ‘fits — they’re watching to get a first look at the hottest glam, manicures, and hairstyles before they take over social media.
It all starts in Manhattan. This New York Fashion Week’s fall/winter 2024 season, which officially kicked off on Feb. 9, has come in with a bang. While so many runways of yore paraded no makeup-makeup looks and casual hairdos, this season’s shows have already proven that bold makeup and intricate updos are back.
Case in point? Marc Jacobs’ show, which happened early on Feb. 2, featured a very Diana Ross-coded aesthetic, complete with thick, extra spidery lashes, heavy eyeliner, and dramatically bouffant wigs. Then, over at Helmut Lang, models rocked smoky eye makeup reminiscent of ’90s-era grunge.
Want more fresh inspo? Keep scrolling for the standout hair and makeup trends from New York Fashion Week F/W ‘24.
1. Grunge Eye Makeup
For Helmut Lang’s fall/winter collection, lead makeup artist Daniel Sallstrom — who worked with M.A.C. Cosmetics — was inspired by the elements. “The idea of it was you have someone’s makeup done perfectly, and then they go out and the weather just catches them — it’s unpredictable,” he told Bustle backstage. “It’s really embracing nature ruining what you spent hours doing.” In this case, many of the looks featured a dragged-out, super smudged eye, which had very ’90s grunge vibes.
Over at PatBo, Stila Cosmetics global beauty director Charlie Riddle juxtaposed “satin skin” with a dramatic smoky eye, created using Stila’s Smudge Pot on the lash line combined with liquid eyeliner and layers of black mascara.
Jason Wu’s fall/winter beauty look featured two different kinds of glam: one, a gold eyeshadow moment, while the other was an oversized black feathered eye. For the very grunge latter, models wore Jason Wu Beauty’s Jewel Stick in Solid Black all over the eyelids and smudged outwards, followed by mascara.
2. Glass Skin
During Paris Couture Fashion Week, Pat McGrath sent waves across the beauty industry with the porcelain doll, otherworldly glass skin makeup look she created for Maison Margiela. So it’s no surprise that the extra dewy aesthetic has already been spotted at NYFW.
At Christian Siriano, the Charlotte Tilbury pro-artistry team mixed layers of the brand’s Beauty Light Wand (in Goldgasm, Pillow Talk Medium, and Spotlight) and Hollywood Glow Glide Face Architect Highlighter (in Gilded Glow) on models’ cheekbones and forehead for a finish that stunned. And over at Puma, makeup artist Isamaya Ffrench created a similar glass skin look.
3. Hair Adornments
Expect the hair accessories category to take off in the coming months. While last fashion week was all about the coquette trend, complete with ribbon-laced hairstyles and big bows, this season has kicked off with even more creative ways to decorate your ‘do.
At Christian Siriano, celebrity hairstylist Lacy Redway used TRESemmé products to execute her “celestial box bun,” aka a box-shaped bun that featured gold foil along the middle part and on top of the bun itself. Meanwhile, at Bronx and Banco, models wore all sorts of metal and jewel-encrusted headbands as hair accessories — so don’t be afraid to get experimental with how you embellish your ponytail.
4. Going Mod
For the Diana Ross-inspired glam at Marc Jacobs, makeup artist Diane Kendal used faux lashes coated with black nail polish (yes, really) for a “cloggy,” spidery look, along with black eyeliner and black duo glue for added density.
Marc Reagan, Bobbi Brown global pro artist, was inspired by the ’60s for the makeup at Son Jung Wan’s show — a look that married mod with new-wave French vibes. This was translated into an elongated eye created with precise liner and voluminous mascara.
Over at Alice + Olivia, the eye makeup served major Twiggy vibes. Elyse Reneau, Too Faced executive director of global beauty, translated pop art into wearable makeup with ’60s-esque doll eyes and bright blue eyeshadow (specifically: the shades Bless Your Tart and Milk It from the Better Than Chocolate Palette).
5. Big Hair
Again, the beauty at Marc Jacobs’ show was meant to portray a modern-day Diana Ross — which, of course, involved hair with volume on top of volume. Stylists used wigs swept into windswept coifs to achieve the dramatic aesthetic.
Then, at Christian Cowan, TRESemmé Hair Artist Justine Marjan went for an “expensive” hairstyle that oozed luxury and confidence. Translation? Oversized yet polished, structured coifs. Marjan used a 1 1/4-inch iron for the job, shaping hair into a classic “roller set” before pinning and then brushing into an almost bouffant-like look, topped off by hairspray.
6. Red Lips
Renowned makeup artist Isamaya Ffrench did the beauty look at Thom Browne, which was all about creating fantastical creatures like ravens and mantises. Each one, however, was united by a common thread: a bright, strong red lip and dramatic lashes — specifically, Isamaya’s Cardinal Lipstick and Lashify’s Plushy Black Gossamer lashes.
At Altuzarra, Diane Kendal and Laura Mercier global beauty director, Tayaba Jafri wanted a statement lip — and this ended up being a glittery ruby pout paired with a natural, radiant complexion. For the look, they used the Laura Mercier Longwear Lip Liner in Crimson followed by a not-yet-launched Caviar Smoothing Matte Lipstick in Scarlet Velvet with red glitter on top.
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