Do More Expensive SPFs Perform Better? Here's What Pros Say

Of the many skin care commandments — thou must wash thy face every night, thou must moisturize, etc. — none seem to be as heavily preached about as daily sunscreen use. And there’s a good reason for that: SPF is everyone’s best protection against skin cancer.

According to a study done by the Skin Cancer Foundation, sunscreen is proven to reduce your risk of getting squamous cell carcinoma (SCC), which is the second most common form of skin cancer, by about 40 percent, and it lowers your risk of getting melanoma by 50 percent.

Still, sunscreen remains an afterthought in a lot of people’s routines (especially during the fall and winter months). According to a Bustle survey about beauty habits from May 2021, only 46% of beauty lovers said that they wore sunscreen everyday before March 2020 (55% said that they slather it on daily now). While that’s an improvement, there are still barriers that could potentially be keeping many others from using sunscreen as often as recommended. And one of the barriers is cost.

First, it’s important to break down the amount of SPF that derms suggest using. Board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology Marisa Garshick, M.D. recommends applying about one shot glass full to the body. For the face, Garshick says to use a nickel-sized amount. Because most adults need a couple ounces per every application (reapplication is important), the amount of ounces a bottle contains will determine how long it lasts.

Garshick says that after a day or weekend at the beach, you’ll most likely finish the bottle of sunscreen if you’re applying a sufficient amount. Even at lower price points, it can quickly add up (some TikTokers have even calculated the cost).

It doesn’t help that most sunscreens are packaged in such small bottles. Ginger King, cosmetic chemist and founder of FanLoveBeauty, explains that sunscreens are regulated by the FDA and keeping it in small bottles can prevent consumers from using leftover product that has most likely expired into a new season. A more obvious reason is capitalism. “People are willing to invest more into facial products than body products, so of course, a company will set the price to whatever they deem fit,” says cosmetic chemist Esther Olu. “Additionally, studies have shown that some consumers tend to under-apply sunscreen so companies may not see the need to invest in larger packaging if consumers are already not using the recommended amount.”

What Are The Cheaper Alternatives?

The best investment you can make in your skin is to use sunscreen. “Treatments for skin cancer, fine lines, and brown spots will ultimately be a lot more expensive than preventing them from occurring by wearing sunscreen,” says Garshick. “This is particularly true for people who spend money on other parts of a skin care routine, such as serums, face masks, or procedures. If you’re not committed to sunscreen, then you are wasting both time and money.”

But that doesn’t mean you have to break the bank for sunscreen. When it comes to sun protection, all three experts say that there is no difference between expensive and inexpensive sunscreens. “The SPF protection is the same; you don’t have to spend money on expensive sunscreen unless you cannot stand how [a cheaper option] feels on [your] skin,” says King.

Olu agrees and explains that all sunscreens go through the same testing methodology to make sure they work effectively. Expensive sunscreens in the U.S. may include extra ingredients — think peptides or plant extracts — or have some proprietary technology, but she believes that doesn’t necessarily mean there is anything special that you’re paying extra for. “If you were to compare the ingredient list of a drugstore sunscreen and an expensive sunscreen, the foundation is pretty much the same.”

Other differences are texture and consistency. Garshick adds those more expensive options may feel and absorb better into the skin, but as long you’re using a sunscreen that has the recommended SPF 30 or higher, broad-spectrum coverage, and apply it regularly, the price is not an indicator of whether it will work or not. It’s about finding one that you will like to use.

“I always say the best sunscreen is the one you’ll use,” she says. “It’s just a matter of finding one, no matter what the price, that you like using and will use.”

Until sun care education drives public places like beaches and amusement parks to install communal sunscreen stations (something Garshick hopes happens in the future), there are options with efficacious formulas that suit any budget. Below, Garshick and Olu pick their favorite sunscreens that cost less than $20. It’s a small investment that your skin — and health — will thank you for in the long run.

Studies referenced:

Elisabeth G. Richard, M.D., (2021). All About Sunscreen https://www.skincancer.org/skin-cancer-prevention/sun-protection/sunscreen/

Dawn M Holman, (2015). Patterns of sunscreen use on the face and other exposed skin among US adults https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26002066/

Kesha J. Buster, M.D., (2012). Dermatologic health disparities https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3742002/

Shasa Hu, M.D. (2011). Are We Overlooking Skin Cancer in Ethnic Minorities? http://bmctoday.net/cutaneousoncologytoday/pdfs/COT1211_Fea_Ethnic.pdf

Krishnaraj Mahendraraj, M.D. (2017) Malignant Melanoma in African–Americans https://journals.lww.com/md-journal/fulltext/2017/04140/Malignant_Melanoma_in_African_Americans__A.1.aspx

Experts:

Dr. Marisa Garshick, M.D., board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology

Ginger King, cosmetic chemist and founder of FanLoveBeauty

Esther Olu, cosmetic chemist