How Pro Climber Nina Williams Turns Fear Into Focus

For North Face athlete and pro climber Nina Williams, 35, there’s nothing uncomfortable about tension. “Logically, [I knew] that I was safe,” she says, recalling one of her first climbs at age 12. Harnessed to an outdoor wall in her home state of Rhode Island, Williams felt a thrill — a confidence, even — that would take her love for the sport to the next level. “Mentally, [I had] that survival instinct of fear,” she reflects. “I kind of liked that.”

This comfort with risk is Williams’ way of life. At 19, she dropped out of college after three semesters. “I didn’t know what I was doing in life,” she says, “[but] I knew that I couldn’t be there anymore.” She used the time to pursue climbing, completing the first female ascent of South Africa’s Ray of Light, an 8B boulder problem in the Dihedral Boulders. She later became the first female to free solo four more climbs: Evilution Direct, Ambrosia, Window Shopper, and Too Big to Flail.

Catching up with Williams in London during the North Face’s annual Climb Fest nearly 25 years after she first discovered the sport, it’s clear she’s still energized by climbing’s momentum. Over the free weekend of competitions, panels, and workshops, nearly 16,000 attendees gathered alongside some of the sport’s biggest names, including Free Solo star Alex Honnold and Olympic silver medalist Brooke Raboutou.

“We as a sport can’t say that we’re small and niche [anymore],” Williams explains. “We have an impact.” It’s a sentiment that she, a certified professional coach in leadership and development, has carried for her whole career, now working with women and people of color on their climbing, mindset, communication, and confidence. “One of my first coaches when I was growing up, Dana Seaton, reminded me: ‘If you’re going to be a walking billboard, you’ve got to have some responsibility.’ That has always stuck with me,” she says.

Below, Williams shares the routines that keep her grounded, from her favorite sleep aid to the mindset that helps manage her fear before a big climb.

What’s your pre-climb routine?

I try to get a really good sleep by not drinking, not staying up super late, being like, “I’ve got something to do that I’m dedicated to.” It’s so important.

Do you have any sleep gadgets or hacks?

I’ve been really into the Nodpod. It’s a weighted eye mask that Instagram totally targeted me with, but I’m so glad it did.

How do you get in the zone?

I take deep breaths, especially right before I pull on to the wall. I’ve also been taking the time to look around and appreciate the sun or the rain or whatever the weather is, and be in the moment and acknowledge that I’m really thankful to be doing what I love.

What helps you fuel up before a climb?

I’ve been in a really big carrot phase. They’re portable, crunchy, and fill me up. I also love making my own protein smoothies. My go-to is peanut butter, dates, frozen mango, and soy milk.

What’s on your hype-up playlist?

I have three rotating playlists depending on my mood. I have my chill playlist, electro playlist, and hip-hop playlist, so I choose depending on what level of energy I want. I have thousands of songs in each of them. Lately I’ve been really into Mindchatter as my chill-out, calm-down artist.

How do you cope with stress or pressure leading up to a big climb?

I don’t meditate in the traditional sense because I almost find climbing to be meditative in and of itself. But I alleviate some of the pressure by making sure that I’ve set up all of the pads and rehearsed the beta [climbing sequence]. Knowing that I’ve done the work takes away a lot of the fear and stress because I know I’m here to execute.

This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.